WINE OF THE WEEK: 2014 Fond Cypres ‘Le Blanc des Garennes’

AVAILABLE: by the glass and half glass Friday lunch at Elizabeth St and Friday, Saturday nights at Fitzroy.

This is one of the sleeper bottles that I rarely get to enjoy but once opened reminds me of how good the wines from Fond Cypres are. Winemaker couple Laetitia Ourliac and Rodolphe Gianesini are passionate about producing wines that express their small slice of Langeudoc in the south of France. Their vineyard is marked by road lines with Cypress trees and extends in either direction across 15 hectares of lush greenery, featuring a magnificent garden of olives, tomatoes, eggplants and wild herbs. The ‘Le Blanc’ is made up of 3 grapes that are all harvested at the same time with different levels of ripeness. As soon as the viognier and Roussanne (later) are ripe, the whole plot is harvested (Grenache black is often overripe). The grapes are pressed and vinified together in barrels of 225 litres, then aged 10 months. The wines of Château Fond Cyprès can be quickly drunk, but still remain expressive wines of freshness, superb balance and with good power thanks to a slight maceration.

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Brad Guy